- #Meshcam 6 quits unexpectedy while machining depth manual#
- #Meshcam 6 quits unexpectedy while machining depth full#
These cylinder backplates and associated holes are a prime example.
#Meshcam 6 quits unexpectedy while machining depth manual#
Some things that were more easy on the manual mill Duclos used can be better done a different way with CNC. Here is a sample drawing:Īs you can see, I have slightly redesigned the parts. So far I am just at the Rhino drawing stage, but I’m hoping this can be one of my first projects after completing the conversions on my lathe and mill. I’ve been working through the drawings for the Hula Hula engine (a Philip Duclos design) and converting them over so I can build the engine using CNC techniques. Apparently this fellow tried some cheaper ones with poor results. I knew there was a reason I’d need one of these cool electronic edgefinders after I saw this picture of using one to touch off a CNC converted Lathemaster 9×30:īTW, this conversion apparently will do 125 ipm! This is the $175 model from J&L Industrial, made by XYZ. as long as air goes to it the whole bucket will dance It took me 15mins to build this and guess what it works.įrom the Anodizing Yahoo Group. it points down when bolted to the bucket. when you set the whole thing bucket and sander down between the rails of pipe it hits the trigger lever which is on top of the sander. You attach a air hose to the Jitterbug sander. add a little polishing compound to the media. You put your parts in the bucket with some crushed walnut hulls You can get 13lbs of them on ebay. put a long piece of threaded rod up through the center of bucket to bolt the top down then epoxy a block of plywood to the bottom of the bucket drill out hole to fit over rod and nut on bottom of bucket. Then pick up a cheap jitterbug sander from harbor Freight. Make it so a five gallon plastic bucket will slide up and down loosely between the pipes. Take four pieces of 1in pipe weld them to a flat piece of steel. I couldn’t pass this one up because it seems so cheap and easy to try: It’s scary to even go under there and try to plug a new one in or fix the old. There are routers, DSL modems, power strips, and every manner of wall wart power supply. If you’re like me, there is a gaggle of boxes and cables under your desk that are associated with your computer. Not Machine Tool Oriented, But I Want One! Speaking of attractive, here is a totally awesome fabricated enclosure for an IH Mill:Įlectronics are right underneath the mill… The extrusions aren’t cheap, but I really think they’re a very attractive way to go. You can see from the pictures why I like the 80/20 route: it goes together with a minimum of fabrication and comes out looking extremely professional. I’ve always liked the idea of making an enclosure from 80/20 aluminum extrusions: Notice how the coolant is channeled into the drip pan at the bottom… I love the way the whole front hinges downward for access. Kap Pullen uses a very simimlar enclosure on a mill at his work… It’s basically a fixture plate with plexiglass walls. It’s an ideal setup to key in your vice so it will be properly indicated in when you drop it on. It seems like it would be straightforward to make one of these and to leave room for a vise as well. Pins on the bottom locate the enclosure against he mill table… It is located against two pins at the rear. Note the shiny plate is some work he will dial in.
The Widgitmaster Enclosure being bolted down to mill table. The Widgitmaster has built a very similar enclosure for his Bridgeport clone: It will limit the size of work that can be done, however.
#Meshcam 6 quits unexpectedy while machining depth full#
The splash guard on this Tree CNC mill would be a lot easier to build than a full enclosure. Here are a few example enclosures that might spark some ideas: If you want to run flood coolant, you’ll need an enclosure around your mill or the coolant will go everywhere. I’m taking a day off from my other activities to do some work on this blog and hopefully get down to the shop.
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